40 pages • 1 hour read
After Hurricane Donna has safely subsided, Steinbeck has second thoughts about his trip. He feels attached to the comforts of home and his wife’s companionship, and he’s anxious about leaving them for months. He considers his illness and advancing age but decides he can’t allow himself to become a “baby,” a fate to which he believes many old men succumb. He says a quick goodbye to his wife, loads Charley into Rosinante, and embarks on his adventure. To avoid the New York City traffic, he takes ferries from Long Island to Connecticut. On one of these boats, he meets a man who works on a submarine. They converse over coffee. The man seems content with his job, but Steinbeck expresses fear over the stealthy nature and nuclear technology of submarines—and the lonely isolation of those who work on them.
Steinbeck avoids spending too much time in Connecticut; he wants to avoid difficult city driving and doesn’t feel a need to explore areas he already knows well. His first stop is his son’s high school in Western Massachusetts, where students surround the truck hoping to hitch a ride. After a quick visit, he makes his way north into Vermont and New Hampshire. During his first overnight stop, at a farm, he discusses politics with the owner. They agree that modern politics is confusing and complicated, that no one they know seems willing to share their opinions anymore, and that this reticence likely relates to the increasing complexity of modern life. Steinbeck falls asleep thinking about their conversation.
Before heading west, Steinbeck has agreed to meet an acquaintance on Deer Isle, Maine, so the following morning he leaves early and drives northeast through New Hampshire. Stopping at a roadside diner for breakfast, he notices how little the waitstaff and customers talk, a trend he finds throughout New England. As he drives, he notices the small, quaint New England towns full of antique shops as well as extensive advertising for property in Florida. He wonders why so many New Englanders want to go there—and whether they’ll be bored once they find that the seasons don’t really change. He reminisces about growing up in California and seeing pictures of New England fall and winter—scenes he could hardly believe were real. After stopping at a hotel for the night, he tries to engage a waitress in conversation about Florida but finds her dull.
After getting lost, Steinbeck arrives on Deer Isle, which he notes is more like the coast of England than any other place in the US. He has difficulty putting his experience into words and describes the atmosphere as secretive, almost magical. The next morning, Steinbeck begins to drive back west across Maine. It’s hunting season, and he writes skeptically about modern men’s desire to kill wild animals. While he has nothing against hunting for food, he sees their impulse as more an attempt to prove their manliness. He fears unsafe hunters and ties a red handkerchief to Charley’s tail to make him look less like a deer.
Before leaving Maine, Steinbeck wants to see the potato fields in the state’s interior. His primary motivation for this is to see an area that, unlike the well-traveled areas elsewhere in New England, isn’t frequented by tourists. He drives through endless cold, damp, eerie forest and begins to recall protection charms and other rituals taught to him during his life. He feels a sense of haunting in the desolate landscape. His unease grows when he can’t find a good place to camp and ends up parked on a lonely road surrounded by trees.
Steinbeck’s next campsite is much livelier. He parks next to an encampment of French Canadian potato pickers who traveled to Maine for work. Charley runs to the group and greets them, prompting Steinbeck to invite them over for drinks. They’re formal but friendly, and Steinbeck enjoys sharing his fancy alcohol with them and finally having someone to talk to. He writes that he always enjoys meeting transient agricultural workers. Unlike many such groups, the French Canadians don’t seem financially desperate; they appear to enjoy working in the US while their own farms are shut down for the winter, whereas other groups he met seemed transient because of economic necessity.
Feeling rejuvenated, Steinbeck ventures further into Maine and details a few more New England encounters. He’s almost trampled by a female moose when he uses a deer call to lure it toward him. The next morning, he attends a church service led by a flamboyant preacher. He laments that most church services are watered down and therefore don’t make the churchgoer feel an urge to repent. In contrast, this preacher’s sermon includes vivid descriptions of hell that make Steinbeck think deeply about his sinful ways.
After a quick visit to Niagara Falls, Steinbeck realizes he has spent longer than expected in New England and decides to cover ground quickly by taking the newly built Interstate 90. He’s nervous about driving Rosinante at interstate speed and laments that he’ll miss the real culture of the places he passes. He regularly stops at travel plazas to marvel at the modern vending machines, drink coffee, and talk to long-haul truckers. He compares the truckers to sailors; they travel by road more than anyone else but see very little of the places they pass through.
In a rush to get to Chicago and meet his wife, Steinbeck stays on the interstate through much of the Midwest, thinking about all the things he saw. He writes at length about mobile homes (a relatively new invention at the time). They’re common everywhere he visits, and he speculates that they’re so popular because they’re inexpensive, modern, and convenient. In addition, they’re easy to transport to new locations, which Steinbeck considers an important feature in the increasingly mobile world. This thought prompts him to write about the homogeneity he sees across the country. He’s sad that regional dialects and hometowns seem in decline as communication quickens and people remain in one place less often.
Part 2 of Travels With Charley covers the first half of Steinbeck’s journey as he slowly moves through New England and on to the Midwest. In this section, the book becomes a classic Steinbeck story, full of rich descriptions of landscapes and the people that inhabit them. Compared to later in the book, when the author becomes somewhat disillusioned and ready for his trip to end, the first chapters of travel description show an eagerness for discovery. Steinbeck seeks out people to interact with, and he explores the nooks and crannies of each state he passes through, highlighting the theme The Journey.
He enters New England shortly after Labor Day, having been delayed by the hurricane. Because of this timing, the region is past its summer tourist season, and fall tourists haven’t yet arrived. Steinbeck times his departure intentionally; he wants to avoid popular areas when they’ll be crowded. Consequently, his depictions of New England characterize it as a somewhat lonely place with many closed businesses and only shy locals. The introverted New England personality stands out to Steinbeck, and he’s somewhat frustrated by it because he hopes to have real conversations with people everywhere he goes. Instead of learning about New Englanders directly, he often infers whole personalities and backstories from short interactions. The waitress in the Maine auto-court restaurant exemplifies this: She seems bored even when Steinbeck tries to engage her in a conversation about her upcoming trip to Florida. He tries to imagine her life outside the restaurant:
Such people spread a grayness in the air about them. I’d been driving a long time, and perhaps my energy was low and my resistance down. She got me. I felt so blue and so miserable I wanted to crawl into a plastic cover and die. What a date she must be, what a lover! I tried to imagine the last and couldn’t (34).
As with many people he encounters in Travels With Charley, he extrapolates the woman’s personality entirely from her behavior within the context where he meets her as well as from the context itself. She works at a restaurant with almost no customers, a setting where even the most outgoing person might struggle to project excitement. Adding to this impression are Steinbeck’s descriptions of the restaurant and attached motel as sterile places, where everything is covered in plastic. The generic, plastic atmosphere heightens Steinbeck’s assumption that the woman lacks personality too.
The author goes even further in depicting a character from scant information when he analyzes the detritus, he finds in his temporary hotel room in Chicago. His room isn’t ready when he arrives, so the hotel proprietors let him rest and shower in a room a previous guest just left. It hasn’t yet been cleaned, and the items left behind include a discarded letter addressed to “Darling,” a glass with lipstick on the rim, an empty whiskey bottle, and laundry tickets with a man’s name and address. From these items, Steinbeck envisions a lonely married man who hired a sex worker for an unsatisfying night while on a business trip. He admits that this may not be accurate, but the array of materials neatly guides his assumptions. This scene is one that has garnered skepticism by some who analyzed the book closely; they believe that Steinbeck created parts of the story for narrative effect, rather than reporting actual things he encountered. (The Background section discusses such critiques in more depth.)
Throughout the book, Steinbeck laments how homogenous the US has become. Many of his observations, such as the same songs playing on the radio no matter where he is, foreshadow the technological advances that made the country even more closely connected in later decades. He’s conflicted about the changes, which foregrounds the theme Fear and Acceptance of Change. Although he dislikes the bland, packaged food he eats during the trip, he recognizes that home-cooked meals were often prepared by bad cooks, his own mother included. He mourns the loss of regional dialects yet sees them as “the child of illiteracy and ignorance” (79). Eventually, he deems his sentimentality another symptom of getting old and notes that accepting change, even if one doesn’t like it, is better than desperately trying to hold onto the past.
He’s particularly intrigued by mobile homes, a relatively new invention in the early 1960s. He views them as the dawn of a new, mobile lifestyle: The owners can simply hook their house up to a truck to move somewhere with better opportunities. As in his other observations, his feelings are somewhat conflicted: While he appreciates the convenience and practicality of the homes, he worries about an interconnected, transient society destroying the sense of community inherent in a stable home base. In reality, mobile home usage didn’t play out as Steinbeck anticipated. Mobile homes are often owned by low-income individuals, and the cost of moving these homes can be prohibitively high. Additionally, many communities establish restrictions surrounding them, and they often must have a permanent foundation to pass building codes and be eligible for insurance. Therefore, most mobile home owners who choose to move simply find a new home rather than moving their mobile home. Instead of being at the forefront of a major change in how Americans view home, mobile homes became simply a lower-cost alternative to traditional homes.
Plus, gain access to 8,800+ more expert-written Study Guides.
Including features:
By John Steinbeck
Action & Adventure
View Collection
Aging
View Collection
American Literature
View Collection
Animals in Literature
View Collection
Beauty
View Collection
Books on Justice & Injustice
View Collection
Books that Feature the Theme of...
View Collection
Civil Rights & Jim Crow
View Collection
Community
View Collection
Fear
View Collection
Inspiring Biographies
View Collection
Memoir
View Collection
Memory
View Collection
Nobel Laureates in Literature
View Collection
The Future
View Collection
The Past
View Collection